Table 1 Summary of reported anthropometrical data for high-level rock climbers.
StudySubject number and sexClimb grade ability (Yosemite Decimal Scale/French grade or UIAA)*Age (years)Height (cm)Mass (kg)BMI (kg/m2)Body fat (%)Number of sites used for Σ of skinfold thickness (mm) or other methods usedArm span (cm)
Berrostegieta, 20061310 M>5.14b/8c174±664.54±4.621.319.30±0.67Used GREC method179.0±0.06
R = 163–181R = 57.5–69.6R = 169–185
Becque & Huber, 1996406 M5.11 lead climbers24.5±2.666.9±9.3210.4±3.94
Booth et al., 1999256 M5.12a–5.13b/6b–7a (best onsight)25.2±2.9178±5.764.1±8.520.3±2.19SF 59.9±9.9
1 F6b (best onsight)26.016453.5619.939SF 75.4
Grant et al., 1996710 MLed minimum standard of “E1”27.8±7.2179±8.574.5±9.623.0*14.0±3.74SFArm length 73.8±3.9
Grant et al., 20012710 MLed “hard very severe”31.3±5.4166±0.0759.5±7.421.59*24.8±3.74SF 41.7±10.2Arm length 66.1±4.0
Kemmler et al., 20065820 M⩾9 to 11 UIAA28.7±4.1178.1±4.867.4±4.721.2±1.011.0±1.8Body DXA scan
Mermier et al., 19972824 MMean 5.10c30.4177.4±8.872.8±11.621.49.8±3.5Jackson & Pollock method used, Siri equation used185.4±9.6
R = 5.8–5.13dR = 21.0–45.0R = 163.5–193.5R = 40.1–94.2R = 3.3–17.2R = 168.0–207.0
20 FMean 5.932.2166.4±5.760.1±5.920.7±4.9168.6±8.4
R = 5.6–5.12cR = 18.0–49.0R = 157.8–R = 50.2–69.9R = 14.1–29.6R = 157.0–192.5
192.5
Michalilov 200666 MBest redpoint 8+ to 10- UIAA19-42
Noe et al., 200017Climbers of international standing22±0.4174.8±5.267.6±3.822.12†
Quaine et al., 2003210 M5.13a/8a (onsight) French national team22.2±1.4177.4±4.565.6±2.020.8†
Schöffl & Winkelmann, 19997730 Mminimum level 9 UIAA29.218068.720.20
Schöffl et al., 20037215 MGerman Junior National Team16.2±1.7172±8.659.8±6.420.1±1.4
4 F
Schöffl et al., 200429105.13c/10- UIAA (mean redpoint)26.517973.422.9†
R = 18–37R = 173–193R = 65–95
Schöffl et al., 2006428 M5.13c/10- UIAA (mean redpoint)26.668.521.386.2
5.12c/9- UIAA (mean onsight)R = 19–33R = 165–193R = 52–85R = 17.99–23.54R = 2.2–13.8
Sheel et al., 2003376 M5.12a–5.14c19.3±6.6171.0±5.365.9±8.122.56.0±0.94SF175.3
3 F5.12a–5.12b (all competition climbers)16.0±1.7163.6±8.954.7±6.620.411.2±0.34SF165.3
Sylvester et al., 20063127mean 5.12c for sport climbing; mean 5.9 trad climbing; mean V6 bouldering28.8±8.8175.5±10.4865.33±11.93
R = 19–55R = 157.5–190.5R = 43.09–88.45
Wall et al., 2004246 F5.9–5.1028.0±5.5163.0±4.855.6±3.920.9†18.8±4
6 F5.10–5.1128.7±2.4170.1±8.060.3±5.320.9†17.1±47SF
6 F5.11–5.1230.3±3.5164.5±8.555.0±5.220.3†16.5±3
Watts et al., 19903221 M1989 World Cup semifinalist26.6±4.2178±6.566.6±5.521.024.7±1.37SF 37.8±6.8
7 M1989 World Cup finalist23.9±5.2179±6.562.4±4.519.474.8±2.37SF 36.3±6.4
18 F1989 World Cup semifinalist27.8±2.0165±4.051.5±5.118.9110.7±1.77SF 42.5±8.9
6 F1989 World Cup finalist27.3±1.9162±4.646.8±4.917.839.6±1.97SF 36.7±10.5
Watts et al., 19961111 M5.12a to 5.13d (onsight range)28.7±4.5175.6±8.965.9±8.621.3†5.4±1.57SF 40.8±7.3
R = 22.0–39.0R = 165.1–198.1R = 60.1–89.6R = 3.5–7.7R = 31.0–53.0
Watts & Drobish, 1998109 MExperienced climbers26±870.6±11.0
7 F
Watts et al., 200310752 M competition youth5.11d (mean)13.5±3.0162.2±15.651.5±13.619.1±2.24.4±2.27SF 45.3±13.0 (Jackson-Pollock equation)102±0.02
11.0±2.89SF 59.3±19.2 (Slaughter equation)
38 F competition youth5.11d (mean)13.5±3.0151.3±11.940.6±9.617.5±2.112.2±2.67SF 56.0±14.5 (Jackson-Pollock equation)101±0.02
15.9±2.99SF 74.3±19.6 (Slaughter equation)
Williams et al., 19781311 MEither police officers undertaking arduous training or professional climbing instructors31
R = 24–48
Zapf et al., 200110920 M>5.13a/7c+ UIAA 9+26.0±4.0177.1±1.04465.5±4.920.9±1.1
  • DEX, Dual-energy x-ray absorptiometry; M, male; F, female; SF, skinfold thickness

  • Data reported are mean ± standard deviation, and range of data given (R = range).

  • *Grade conversions and explanation of grades found in Sheel (2004).19

  • †Calculated from study data.